4.3L V6 swap

i have a 92 b2200 that is just giving me troubles. the head is cracked and im sick of working on the 2.2 so i want to put a 4.3L GM V6 cuz i know they are reliable and relatively cheap. i was just wondering if anyone has done this and has any info to make it easier for me. thanks for the help.

Just follow the v8 swap threads. would be the same.

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90' B2600i, FI, 5 speed, 4x4. engine stock. 3" body lift. 2" suspension lift. Electric fan. 130 amp Alt. 33x12.50x15 on 10" rims. http://photobucket.com/bulrid8
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Someone else on here was the doin the same swap check the performance section. and yeah brian did a 350 swap same thing just missing the front 2 cylinders. Basically ur gonna need a 4.3 and tranny, bigger radiator if ur using throttle body ur gonna need the ecu and harness if using a carb then scratch that. also prolly wanna think about upgrading to msd ignition bc the HEI ignition is horrible. Also custom motor mounts lol thas about it.

ya thats what i was thinking. just wondering if anyone had pics of the motor mounts and process. spring break is only a week long, lol.

This is what I did when installing my 350.
Put the rubber mounts on the engine, and then just hang the engine from your hoist, where its gonna sit in the engine bay...
Then make cardboard templates and transfer the design over to your steel plate.

Looks like that would work u need a angle finder to put on the intake though the motor should have a certain rake dont know what that certain degree is right now.

hey thanks guys, i appreciate it alot. another question is the tranny and drive shaft. id like a T5 but an automatic would work, is it hard to get these to fit? and what driveshaft would i need? ive heard of some sliders, but they are for big cars and the truck is tiny, haha.

Here's mine...Che-Zoom!

I went with a 700R4... because that's what I had, but I don't see why a T5 would be any harder. You have all the clutch hardware on the truck already.
My bell housing bolts are a little tough to get to, but with the 4.3 you could move the engine forward more than I could.
Your drive shaft will have to be a combination of Chevy and Mazda.
My original 2 pc. shaft was a few thousandths smaller than the Chevy yoke, so the yoke had to be turned down to fit.
If you have a single shaft, you'll need to have a new one made.
Call a few shops and get prices now. They aren't cheap!


Budget some time to do it, if you want to do it right.

Here is a link to something I wrote about v8 and or v6 swaps

4.3 Swap

Here is a motor mount option for you.
Trans-Dapt Performance Products 4810 - Trans-Dapt Performance Universal Crossmember Motor Mounts - Overview - SummitRacing.com.

Just get that engine mount centered between the frame rails and find out where you want it located front to back.

You wont have to find out the angles (fromt side to side) of the engine mounts and the space between them.

I think you need a 3 degree angle from front to back on the engine and tranny.

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BriankMizell's Stereo Build

Has some pictures,

Chevy 4.3L Swap

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BriankMizell's Stereo Build

hey thanks guys!

dont go with an automatic u will regret it the rest of your life. dont get me wrong 700r4 are fine transmission if all ur gonna do is drive like an 80 year old man but after afew times grabbing 2nd gear it want be there any longer and if you go with a 700r4 get the the K type its alot stronger still breakable i know ive done it

He's doing a 4.3 swap...
Unless there's a power adder, a 4.3 wont break a 700R4!

I know lol but there is some nice power options out for 4.3s nows. A guy i race with is running a procharger putting down like 500hp. which is enough to break a 700r4 realistically on the street 450 is pushing a 700r4.

PB I have to disagree with you about the 700R4, unless I just got lucky mine never broke. I broke the rear end though.

I did burnouts quite often that would shift all the way to 3rd gear and keep spinning the tires until I let off the gas.

I would take off extremely hard with it, and I even put it first gear once and kept romping on the gas, I got the front to bouncing so much it finaly started bouncing off of the ground. Most of that was due to the fact of momentum and weight transfer, and hitting the gas at the right time.

I bent the he11 out of my front fenders, I had to get new ones, needless to say I never done that again.


Mind you I only had about 275 HP (thats a guestimation)

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BriankMizell's Stereo Build