My Turbo Diesel Build (evil laugh here :D)

dealwithit · #**286** (**permalink**) 03-12-2010, 12:57 PM

so where does your IP fit into your block?

EmJay · #**287** (**permalink**) 03-13-2010, 09:03 AM

my exhaust manni is finished already, but thanks for the lookout

I got the call yesterday, the head gasket will be completed and in my possession by the end of the week

Progress report for the day:
Well I got the oil pickup screen cleaned and installed. Trying to find my pan bolts that I took off from the original pan, I was unsuccessful. Luckually all my years of owning mazdas and hording the appropriate bolts, I had enough for a complete set of oil pan bolts. Cleaned them, put the silicone down for the oil pan gasket (all the cork ones i've ever used always leaked, so I just do straight black RTV and be done with it.) In the process of cleaning and identifying the other bolts that I have. Also, after the oil pan was on, I checked my pickle jar of paint thinner and found them at the bottom, so now I have another complete set of pan bolts all cleaned up and ready to go.

EmJay · #**288** (**permalink**) 03-16-2010, 12:01 PM

Well, I figured for anyone whom cared the stock number for the copper head gasket that I am having custom made. The head gasket is .090" thick which is considerably thicker than the stock one (being .050 thick.) I am hoping that this will lower my compression enough for future turbocharging, at the very least it does compensate for the material shaved from the head and should lower the CR a point or two.
The stock number is H3129094C. It is listed as a ford 2.0 4 cylinder diesel, which is the RF block that I'm using. The company that I placed my order through is Cometic Gasket Corporation.

EmJay · #**289** (**permalink**) 03-22-2010, 01:53 PM

Big news

It's slightly thicker than two pennies

Calling around trying to find out if it's alright to have some receiver grooves cut into the cylinder head itself instead of the block, since the short block is already assembled. Machinist is uncertain if o ring are even needed since it's not a racing engine and that's the most common application of o rings. I'm thinking better safe than sorry, especially since minimum compression is 18:1, probably ball parking 20:1

Kyrasis6 · #**290** (**permalink**) 03-22-2010, 04:25 PM

Cometic is a reputable company, we used them for our "Busch" engine head gaskets, I would call them and ask what they recommend for your application and future plans, if they can't tell you then they are probably blowing you off, lol.

My personal recommendation since the gasket is not embossed and there is no delta machined around the cylinders is to have the block o-ringed.

As a last resort I could ask one of our engineers at Garlock since metal seals is what we specialize in.

Edit: How much did that gasket cost?

dealwithit · #**291** (**permalink**) 03-22-2010, 06:24 PM

yes i would deffinately do some sort of oring setup, maybe in the bottom of the gasket to seal the block and either in the top of it, or in the head to seal up the top side. usually they have raised edges around the holes dont they?

Kyrasis6 · #**292** (**permalink**) 03-22-2010, 09:27 PM

Head gaskets normally have a metal C-ring around each cylinder. Really it would need a o-ring on both sides to be completely effective. A third way to do it would be to machine the cylinder holes in the gasket about .160" oversize and then just use one of our helicoflex seals for each cylinder, might be a bit cost prohibative though.. $500 minimum order.

EmJay · #**293** (**permalink**) 03-22-2010, 10:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dealwithit

yes i would deffinately do some sort of oring setup, maybe in the bottom of the gasket to seal the block and either in the top of it, or in the head to seal up the top side. usually they have raised edges around the holes dont they?

Hey Ken, how would they go about putting some sort of o ring in the gasket itself? My machinist was saying that it might be a possible option to put the ring in the head instead. That'd be an easier process. My gasket is completely flat. They did increase the bore a little bit to compensate for the boring that my block recieved.

I do have teaser pics as well, and some bad news to boot. It turns out that I just can't use my starter on the proper size because of an oil passage that gets in the way.
Right now I'm tring to get a bongo 5 speed currently located in Mississippi which has the starter on the driver side (versus the passenger side) and am looking at other bellhousing/trans ideas.
This is starting to look like a much harder swap than I anticipated. Any help as to which transmissions had the starter bolt on the other side would be REALLY apreciated.

First the teaser pics

and the problem

dealwithit · #**294** (**permalink**) 03-22-2010, 10:36 PM

hmmm whats that thing run too?

EmJay · #**295** (**permalink**) 03-22-2010, 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dealwithit

hmmm whats that thing run too?

right now, it's going to run to a blocked off tube. When (if) it gets a turbo it might be a feed line. or it might just be perma blocked. Originally it went to the oil filter cooler as a bypass of some sort. Since I'm running a simpler setup there, eh, no need

dealwithit · #**296** (**permalink**) 03-22-2010, 11:33 PM

hmmmm so if your just blocking it off will it still get in the way?? might be able to tap the hole with a pipe thread and thread in a plug? that should be in far enough to clear the starter, no?

EmJay · #**297** (**permalink**) 03-22-2010, 11:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dealwithit

hmmmm so if your just blocking it off will it still get in the way?? might be able to tap the hole with a pipe thread and thread in a plug? that should be in far enough to clear the starter, no?

nope. The cast sticks out way too far. I'd have to grind it down all the way flat...........
But, that is a good idea with the threaded bung. That might save me some trouble for keeping it closed

EmJay · #**298** (**permalink**) 03-28-2010, 09:48 PM

well, here's the news. I found the transmission that I need to use AND it's in the US. downside is that it costs 250 to ship and it's all the way in mississippi. I'm not too concerned of condition, all I need is bellhousing, but I'm thinking about doing a 12 hour round trip to get it next saturday.

dealwithit · #**299** (**permalink**) 03-29-2010, 01:00 PM

yah i guess doing that in your civic is probably a third of that cost for fuel only eh?

EmJay · #**300** (**permalink**) 03-31-2010, 10:52 PM

Well I have some news, not much. And some pics, not much. And some issues, yet more and more and more.............

Ok, I have decided to get the transmission in Mississippi. (EDIT: Paid for now

) I am going to get it shipped, going to use one of the truck lines that we use at work. Sales manager is going to hook me up on a discount to boot since it's terminal to terminal and I help him out a lot

Ok, the pics and the news comes hand in hand.

I started bolting on the brackets, having to find the right bolts here and there. I noticed that the water pump bypass hose tube is going straight into the side motor mount.........

However it does look like the other hose should be easy to work with

Next issue, Mr. Alternator. I mentioned this before. The mount bracket doesn't seem to want to go anywhere. Remember how on a stock setup it goes on the rad fan bracket? well, there's this annoying timing belt housing that is in the way.....

However, I may have a solution to even this one. Just gonna need some welding, some holes drilled, and a lot of beer (after passover) to get this one done.

Issue #5,673,219: I was inspecting the injectors (since I have to take them out to get the head o-ringed) and noticed that there was this nasty little crack in one of the return tubes. Further inspection showed that repair from there was impossible, it was cracked most of the way around. I went ahead and finished the job

Going to try my diesel forum first to see if I can get a replacement, this might have been one of the issues with this motor in the previous owner's hand.

I'm also starting to think that this person might have saved me a step or two and had bigger injectors used. I am going to have to verify this with my escort forum though. But when I purchased my injector pump, the guy threw in the injectors that he had. This is what all 4 looked like.

Similar, but not completely the same as the ones that I have:

The ones that I have are clearly larger. It may be possible that the PO did have the holes drilled out to use larger injectors. The threads do line up with the escort IP pump.
Now one of you is going to say that I have a housing around the injectors that came with my head, and that once disassembled it will look like the smaller one. WRONG. As you can see, both have a housing on them and would take 2 wrenches to take off. Also, both tips have an amount of carbon buildup on them, indicating that they were both in the head and in contact with the combustion chamber. Maybe it's an 84 escort/87 Lynx difference in the head, maybe someone upgraded them then gave up. Who knows (yet)

My **Turbo** Diesel Build (evil laugh here :D)

My Turbo Diesel Build (evil laugh here :D)