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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2009, 02:13 PM
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eh, for that much money i'd be better off getting the kia flywheel or the current diesel one reworked, but that is something that I can ask around machine shops and welders. There is an additional hole that would need to be drilled though, there is a guide hole to make sure that the flywheel gets lined up to TDC.
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Old 04-18-2009, 03:17 PM
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OK today I'm feeling under the weather, so today is gonna be just a small addition. I got that clunky oil cooler off. It's, umm, wierd how it was hooked up and all. Look at the pics.


And with that mess removed. I have no idea if having this cooler removed is gonna affect the flow of oil or not, so I may just end up putting it back on, seeing if I can at least rework it somehow or if I am just stuck with that craptastic exhaust manifold.

I also got the front timing belt off, definately gonna be replaced. I was hoping beyond hope that I was going to be able to get the crank balanced with the FE harmonic ballancer so I wouldn't have to redo the pulleys on the alternator/ac compressor/ps pump, but to no such luck
As I suspected, the timing gear between the FE and the RF are the same dimensions as far as the center bore, meaning that I could interchange both of those. However, the RF lower timing gear has more teeth than the FE, so that is out of the picture. The holes that bolt the pulley to the timing gear are also spread further apart on the RF gear, so again, no dice.
I dunno what i'm gonna do about the power steering and the a/c, but at least Dealwithit's alternator mod would work no problem

One more interesting note, around the thermostat housing area. It looks like they put all the sensors near the thermostat.

If I am indeed correct (and I will figure this out when I am feeling better) then the radiator fan switch for the diesel escorts should bolt right into the radiator for the B series pickups, for all of you who are using electric fans. I know that this is gonna make things easier for me and mine at least
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Last edited by EmJay : 04-18-2009 at 03:42 PM. Reason: updated pics
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Old 04-21-2009, 02:33 PM
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Default Progress report 4/21/2009

Didn't do too much today, still feeling kinda . One of the things that I did today was to make a checklist of all the issues that i'm having, including listing the page that it's on and the page that the solution is on (once it's been done.) That is at the bottom of my second post on page 1.
ANYWAYS, today's progress. Not much really. I managed to get the cam gear off (had to use a puller for it.) I also noticed where the camshaft timing mark was, that'll make lining things up a bit easier.


I also managed to fix the lower alternator bracket clearance issue. Refresher pic first, fixed pic second.



Found another roadblock, it's the upper alternator mounting brackets. On the stock FE block it was mounted off the fan clutch bracket on the front of the motor. Well, lucky for me, I did away with that years ago when I threw the electric fan in. However, I used a mount point that was above the FE oil pump. (sorry pic is buried in archive.) UNFORTUNATELY for me, the oil pump setup on the RF block is completely different. Also, the timing belt housing covers up this mounting hole that I used on the FE block. It's present, but covered up.

There are two studs on the front of the oil pump, those were originally for the ac compressor bracket for the Taurus. I figured out that with an extension, I can use the same modded bracket that I used for my electric fan swap, I just need to throw in an extension.

Please note, that the motor mount behind the right bracket is kinda in the way of the shot. the Bracket on the right hand side attached to the oil pump stud ends at the bolt, the rest of that is the motor mount bracket.

Feel free to ask for pictures of anything on this block from a different angle, I am trying to make a comprehensive, easy to navigate and follow writeup for anyone interested in doing the same swap.
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Last edited by EmJay : 04-21-2009 at 02:37 PM.
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Old 04-22-2009, 01:43 AM
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i'm not sure that I'm not boing to be using the oil cooler. I may need to use it after all. I really need someone to take a picture of their block with the oil filter off, zoomed into the hole there. #1 I never really paid attention there but #2 the inside of the diesel one just looks a lot different in that hole. I'm not too comfortable with the idea of hacking lines and welding them shut untill I understand more about this beautiful block.

As far as the timing cover is concerned, the front one is made of plastic and 2 piece. I do not intend on damaging that at all. The back housing is some sort of metal and I really don't like the idea of damaging that either. However I was thinking a bit today and I might have an idea to my dilema, although I would need to go to the junkyard and start cruising under the hood of a few cars.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2009, 02:14 AM
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i didn't mean just weld over the pipes, i ment connect them like a bypass. i guess you don't have your old blown up block to look at?
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2009, 02:42 PM
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Default progress report 4-23-2009

Some more progress to add, still not much as funding is still a little dry. (who's isn't?)
As dealwithit recommended I took a gander at flipping the thermostat cover. There are 3 bolts that hold it, not 2, so I could only flip it in 120 incriments. The first wasn't too motivating. here's the 2 (and a half) options.

Stock:


Flipped counter clockwise:


Flipped clockwise:


Note how if i flip it clockwise it goes straight into the intake runner, making this a not too feasible option. However, if I do a little cutting, lift it a couple inches, and tweak the bend at the top perfectly, I can solve 2 problems

#1, it would clear the intake runner no problem


and #2, I would be able to run a metal coolant line over the intake, like such


Till next time
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2009, 04:02 PM
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good idea, that'll keep it nice and clean
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Old 04-23-2009, 05:30 PM
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MJ, if you sent me a gasket for the thermo housing,I'd make ya a spacer to move it out(need to know how far ,thick)PM me if your interested.
Gimpy
PS no charge,just intrested in seeing it work
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Old 04-24-2009, 01:30 AM
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this'll be another checkmark off the roadblock check list, any chance you can fab up an aluminum pipe to? I'll send ya a PM when I find more parts and we'll talk spec's and payments
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Old 04-24-2009, 05:08 AM
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I don't expect payment.
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Old 04-26-2009, 03:24 AM
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not going to get into a payment argument on the forum, thx much I still feel the need to pay for the materials, first need to FIND the gasket lol
as far as getting her to work, I might, key word, MIGHT, have located an injector pump with the lines.

EDIT: Pump IS paid for and en route. Should be here by the end of the week, USPS pending lol!!!
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Last edited by EmJay : 04-26-2009 at 06:32 PM. Reason: good news!!!
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Old 04-26-2009, 10:03 PM
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The gasket for the thermostat housing would be easy to make from gasket material, might be easier to just make on instead of trying to track one down.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 04-27-2009, 02:07 AM
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i was hoping to get one so I could mail it to gimpy so I could get a spacer made. I could easily make one, but it would make a rough spacer.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 04-28-2009, 04:49 AM
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Sorry I've been away for 3 or 4 days(G daughters 8th bday).At any rate,MJ take a piece of single layer cardboard,hold it in place over either part,use a small ballpeen (ball end) lightly tap around edges of part,will give a very good gasket shape, as hammer taps will cut the card bd.Be careful don't hit it hard.This works very well to make gaskets as well.My pop taught me this a long time ago.
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Old 04-29-2009, 01:05 AM
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yah thats how i make gaskets
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91 EF Si, B18a1 swap, etc... build thread

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