My Diesel Build (evil laugh here :D)

dealwithit · #**271** (**permalink**) 02-22-2010, 10:44 AM

hmmmmm, that sounds exactly like any other diesel IP, mine has all those little lines between the injectors and the fuel system etc, and many people have put electric pumps on my style of IP with only gains in every aspect. and if it does do anything to your timing it will maybe advance it 1/8th of a degree, but remember the injectors open at 2000psi, a carbed electric pump puts out about 6 psi max? the extra flow of fuel simply bypasses and helps cool everything it touches. once i see some pics of the manual lift pump tho then ill know for sure.

on another note, a big diesel genset i was working on at my old job had 2 lift pumps on it, one mechanical one like mine an yours has on it, plus a second electric one that ran in parrallel with the mechanical one. thats alot of flow, and it all just returned to the tank, minimal pressure in the feed lines.

EmJay · #**272** (**permalink**) 02-22-2010, 11:05 AM

That is what someone told me worked best for the RF diesels in the escort, was to use 6psi. I imagine would be similar for truck use as well.

dealwithit · #**273** (**permalink**) 02-23-2010, 12:08 AM

and if your turn up your pump for more power, then you will want more psi and flow as well from your lift pump

one of the first things to upgrade on fullsize truck when turning up the power is the lift pump, just a thought

EmJay · #**274** (**permalink**) 02-23-2010, 12:21 AM

But if I up the psi from the lift pump for more power, then wouldn't I have to find a way to have the injectors open up beyond 2000 psi? like at 2500? or is that gonna be the same

dealwithit · #**275** (**permalink**) 02-23-2010, 08:17 PM

upping the pressure from the lift pump isn't nessasarrily for more power, its to keep the IP from having to suck fuel when your rack is opened up to full travel, (its probably only set at about 3/4 to 5/8 of its full travel right now, maybe even less). the more pressure (not much, about 8-10psi is the most i put into a pretty much stock IP) and the higher and smoother flow of the electric will make life alot easier for your IP, and when you turn up the fuel (you know you will

) it will make more of a difference too. it will also run smoother, probably start up easier too.

the only reason i haven't switched to the electric pump that i have for mine is because my manual pump works perfectly fine, and i've been to lazy lol. plus i would have to re wire it for an electric pump, i think i gutted all that stuff when i cleaned up the abs BS.

EmJay · #**276** (**permalink**) 02-24-2010, 08:54 PM

Oops, I forgot to take a pic of the IP while I was out in the shed cleaning things up. I did take some other pictures, I was mainly trying to find the old EFI pumps and sending unit to ship out to Brian.
Anyways, I took some neat photos.

Can you find where the PCV tube went on the intake? it WAS on this side, if you can't tell then I wont. Lol. Also smoothed out more ridges from it, it looks a lot smoother, eh?

Purty pistons

Now, for those whom don't believe that these blocks are closely related. Here's the head gasket from an RF and an FE block, side by side then on top of each other. Just see how much lines up

dealwithit · #**277** (**permalink**) 02-25-2010, 08:25 PM

so are you gonna get o rings cut into the new copper one?

EmJay · #**278** (**permalink**) 02-25-2010, 09:35 PM

Probably. The guy I spoke to over the phone (Chris) was saying something about doing it in either the block or the gasket, but when he heard my machinist involved a 100 mile round trip, he understood why I was reluctant to do any more machine work. We'll see though what he reccomends once he gets the old gasket. Due to be there Monday

dealwithit · #**279** (**permalink**) 02-25-2010, 10:07 PM

nice, what did he say about thickness to drop the cr to around 17-18?

EmJay · #**280** (**permalink**) 02-26-2010, 08:38 AM

he said he needed to see the original first before making any decisions to drop the CR.
By the way, I bought a bigger sanding wheel for my angle grinder. It's a 4 1/2 inch jobber with the shield, I dropped the shield and am running a 7 inch disc. Feels like a different beast, and the grinder doesn't struggle

I just gotta make sure to wear my thick gloves just in case

EmJay · #**281** (**permalink**) 03-02-2010, 01:38 PM

Got a call from the head gasket company. Definately not on their file but will be afterwards. They measured the thickness of the HG to be about .056". Taking that thickness and adding about .020" for max allowable (from FE head) to compensate for head and deck shaving, and adding another .020" to help lower compression down to 18:1, the gasket is going to be .090" thick.
also, after talking with the guy, I have a feeling that I am going to be increasing the size of one of the coolant ports on the front end a little bit. It seems that most of these heads crack at the same spot, between #1 and #2. So I am going to have one of the ports on each side opened up a hair up there, not all the way, but just enough to increase the flow there.

EmJay · #**282** (**permalink**) 03-03-2010, 11:06 PM

Injector pump pics Ken

dealwithit · #**283** (**permalink**) 03-09-2010, 12:33 PM

hmmmm, seems simple enough

EmJay · #**284** (**permalink**) 03-10-2010, 11:15 PM

Well I got back from Pittsburgh late last night, decided that I was going to finish up with the oil pump. Got it all nice and clean, tolerances well within spec, and went to mount it, just to realize that I cleaned the WRONG OIL PUMP

so I got the RF oil pump (both use same gasket but one has gear for driving the pump and other just uses indents) soaking in a thinner/carb cleaner mix to get it ready.

EmJay · #**285** (**permalink**) 03-12-2010, 01:40 AM

Well I got the oil pump back on, now the process of identifying and cleaning bolts to do the pan and sump.