My Diesel Build (evil laugh here :D)

dealwithit · #**256** (**permalink**) 02-16-2010, 08:04 PM

gotcha, yah if you can get a thick copper one made, just make sure you dont muck your valve timing to much. maybe with some o rings top and bottom????

oh and nice finally updating your signature too lol

EmJay · #**257** (**permalink**) 02-16-2010, 10:45 PM

lol, yeah I thought that it was a appropriate. Yeah, take a look at original pics, valves did hit the pistons, explains why greg found bent ones. Guess it's time to send the old gasket to this guy and get recommendations. At this point it's impossible to tell how much got milled off though, because 2 machinists did work to them. It does appear though that the valves are in approx the same spot, just that the re-welding removed that dip in the middle. Also, the pistons do have recesses in them. Probably what I'll do for increased thickness of the gasket is to take the max allowable to be milled from the head, and add a couple thousandths to it to compensate for the deck being shaved, the decreased surface area in the head, and a little extra to bump compression down to 18:1

dealwithit · #**258** (**permalink**) 02-17-2010, 08:32 PM

im just guessing here but im pretty sure you'll want something around 1/8" thick. that'll give you a low enough cr to boost it with no worries, and it will last alot longer too.

just make sure to get some good glow plugs, as i've read that IDI engines take a bit longer to start once the cr is lowered, not a big deal tho.

EmJay · #**259** (**permalink**) 02-17-2010, 11:14 PM

yeah, that is true. That is why I am aiming for 18:1. If by some fluke I manage to make it too low a compression to where it doesn't want to run then I guess I'll just have to add more fuel and boost her

EmJay · #**260** (**permalink**) 02-19-2010, 10:44 PM

I was reading my shop manual for the 86 lynx/topaz/escort/tempo and came across the cylinder head flatness specifications. "When the cylinder head is removed because of gasket leaks, check flatness of cylinder head gasket surface with 0.15mm (0.006 inch) straight edge. Check for warpage as shown. If warped, replace the cylinder head. NOTE: Cylinder head is case hardened, and cannot be resurfaced."
OK, FUUUUUUUCK!!!!!!! Why did NO ONE KNOW THIS on the escort forum I'm on?????????? I'm sure that since the second machinist I took my head to is a lot more compitent, knew a way around this. He did ship the head off to a company in Alabama (one of his friends) and he did the re-welding where the crack was. Also, in order to make sure that the welds stuck (or so I originally thought) He did the work with the head at a certain temp and gradually lowered the temperature, or that is what I remember. Anyways, he did some sort of heat treatment. Anyone any thoughts on this? Or did I waste $700 because I missed that one little paragraph?

Second note, something useful and should help anyone considering doing this swap, I learned more about the escort glow plug setup. "When the ignition switch is turned to the RUN position, the glow plug lamp in the instrument cluster lights. When the signal appears, relay No. 1 closes and full system voltage is applied to the glow plugs. If engine coolant temperature is below 30 C relay No. 2 also closes at this time. After three seconds, the control module turns off the glow plug lamp indicating that the engine is ready for starting. If the ignition switch is left in the RUN position about three seconds more without cranking, the control opens relay No. 1 and the current to the glow plugs stops to prevent overheating. However, if coolant temperature is below 30 F when relay No. 1 opens, relay No. 2 remains closed to apply reduced voltage to the plugs through the glow plug resistor until the ignition switch is turned on.
"When the engine is cranked, the control module cycles relay No. 1 intermittently. Thus, glow plug voltage will alternate between 12 and 4 volts during cranking, with relay No. 2 closed, or between 12 and 0 volts when No. 2 open. After the engine starts, alternator output signals the control module to stop the No. 1 relay cycling and the afterglow function takes over.
"If the engine coolant temperature is below 30 C, the No. 2 relay stays closed. This applies reduces (4.2-5.3) voltage to the glow plugs through the glow plug resistor. When the vehicle is under way (clutch or neutral switches closed) or the coolant temperature is above 30 C, the control module opens relay No. 2, cutting off all current to the glow plugs."
I like this, minus the clutch and neutral switch use (my trans/petal doesn't have em anymore.) So I think I know how I'm going to wire em into my truck

Till next time

dealwithit · #**261** (**permalink**) 02-19-2010, 10:49 PM

the intake looks pretty good man, got it in there nice and tight too.

as far as the pcv pipe i would try an elbow like your thinking and run it over to the intake, is there a second breather line on the valve cover somewhere? just make sure you get a 1 way pcv valve in there once you get a turbo on there.

i really wouldn't worry about the hardening they talk about, especially if your dropping the cr.

well thats good that your plugs are designed to take full voltage, you can still setup a push button like i have in mine, it works pretty well, and you only need to use them when its really cold.

EmJay · #**262** (**permalink**) 02-19-2010, 11:03 PM

I was looking at the diagrams and I didn't see that there was ever a PCV valve. I'm just going to run a breather filter, and if it gets too oily (which it shouldn't on a fresh build) then I'll use a pcv valve. But once it's on the valve cover, it's just gonna go straight up. There is no other breather line on the valve cover.
This was the smaller project for the day. I now have a hard line for my air compressor outside the shed

I used schedule 40 1/2 inch PVC, included a throw off valve near the door. Later this week I'm going to add a T in and have an air source on my workbench as well. I figure it's easier to move 1 hose around than to move the compressor around. Having these air lines also added some volume. Hmm, maybe I see me getting some 4 inch PVC segments, mounting them in the ceiling, and adding some air volume that way? include a throw off valve for when I don't want to use it

EmJay · #**263** (**permalink**) 02-19-2010, 11:24 PM

lol, I welded that hole shut already though. No real way to plumb it back into the intake without drilling in the hole and rewelding that bung (which I did save) that would make it a really tight squeeze though. That is a good thought though with the fumes

dealwithit · #**264** (**permalink**) 02-20-2010, 12:42 AM

i would just drill a hole and tap it with 1/8 pipe threads and screw in a nipple for it, that would be pretty simple. thats what i had to do with my f2t mani when i built the top half the second time around.

EmJay · #**265** (**permalink**) 02-20-2010, 12:16 PM

hmm, so add an elbow, then tap a hole in the top of the manifold, then use a U shaped piece of hose

dealwithit · #**266** (**permalink**) 02-21-2010, 07:46 PM

yah, thats my thinkin, also i would just throw in a one way pcv valve too just as a safecall, then you don't need to worry about it when you boost it.

dealwithit · #**267** (**permalink**) 02-21-2010, 07:55 PM

so did you ever figure out how to crank up your IP yet? any pics of it?

EmJay · #**268** (**permalink**) 02-22-2010, 12:27 AM

not as of yet, to be honest I haven't tried. The consensus on the escort forum for using an electric pump is not to do it. Using an electric pump messes up with the timing some aparantely. I'll copy and post how this pump works at a later time. It's been a rough night.....

dealwithit · #**269** (**permalink**) 02-22-2010, 01:54 AM

hmmmmmmm, im pretty sure it will work better having a consistent flow of low pressure insted of a pulsing signal from a mechanical pump. oh and some pics of the injection pump when you get a chance

EmJay · #**270** (**permalink**) 02-22-2010, 02:24 AM

The Fuel Injection Pump
"The fuel injection pump, located at the rear of the engine, meters an exact amount of fuel to the fuel nozzles, in the specified order, as required by the engine operating condition at precisely the right time at an extremely high pressure. The fuel injection pump is driven by the camshaft through the rear camshaft timing belt."
Fuel Injection Nozzles
"The nozzles are connected to the injection pump with high pressure lines. The fuel is delivered to the nozzle from the injection pump. When the pressure in the nozzle reaches approximately 14,000 kPa (2000 PSI), the nozzle opens and fuel is injected into the swirl chamber. The fuel nozzles are connected in series with each other with a fuel return hose. This hose returns excess fuel in the nozzles to the injection pump. Whenever a nozzle is removed, the heat shield ring must be replaced."

The theory with this is that the higher flow from an electric fuel pump will send too much fuel in and throw off the timing a bit. Personally, I'm still not seeing how, but some of the escort owners noticed that their timing went off a bit when they used an electric pump. They opted to get the whole pump rebuilt. My theory was to bypass the internal pump but was advised that it was all integral.