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01-24-2010, 09:26 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Astoria, OR
Posts: 607
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u must b a firefighter then lol but ya thnx 4 the corrections to my mounts with the green and blue lines that kinda opened my eyes to something i didnt think about. i appreciate it but im not worried about it as of now. n good luck to u in ur classes too. ill b graduating this year n andy is correct
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01-30-2010, 01:00 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: ROCKWALL TX.
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Nice seats either way...
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03-01-2010, 09:57 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Astoria, OR
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since everyone and thier mother btiched at me to change my seat mounts im going to b doing this soon so i dont die lol.. i think im goin to b us ing some 1/4" plate and some 1-1 1/2" square tubing. anyone have any suggestion as to how i sould make the front mount? i was thinking cutting the square tubing at the same angle as the floor rail welding a peice of plate to it with a hole drilled in it already and notching out the adjacent side of the plate so a bolt can be put in. sound good?
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03-02-2010, 08:31 AM
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Super Awesome Moderator
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Roswell, GA
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If I have time later today I'll draw up another idea that I had, it's along the same lines as what you are thinking 
__________________
Past Projects:
1980 Caprice Classic "Goliath the Pimpmobile"
1989 Mazda B2200 LX Extended Cab "Rarity" Archive Pics
Current Projects:
1986 Mazda B2000 Diesel "Project Redemption" Build Thread
1995 Honda Civic "Maggie" Getting a MS1/MS2 conversion after diesel completed Fun Videos** My Civic Pics (link fixed)
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03-02-2010, 04:10 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Astoria, OR
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thanx man.
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03-02-2010, 08:49 PM
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Super Awesome Moderator
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seat mount proposal
ok first off I am finding it really hard to illustrate my idea for the front mounts, but basically it does comprise of square tubing. Your purpose of the spacer on the front was to lift up the seat a few inches, right? so, to get the desired height, weld square tubing to the bottom of the tracks, stacked until you have the desired height. (the green boxes in the illustrations.) Next, I would get some flat steel and carefully bend it so that one part can be where the bolt hole is, and the other covers all the square tubing. Done right, it can look like factory bracketing. This bracket is dark blue in my illustration. For the rear, you can either use the stock brackets that you have for the illustrated part in red or a new piece of metal. But weld the square tubing to the back end as well until you get your desired height and weld the bracket to it.
Don't forget to take the time to clean your weld flux and to grind them down, making certain that you have a good fusion between the pieces of metal. After the welding/grinding paint the metal (black) to prevent any rusting. you have some nice seats and I am jealous
oops, forgot the pictures

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Past Projects:
1980 Caprice Classic "Goliath the Pimpmobile"
1989 Mazda B2200 LX Extended Cab "Rarity" Archive Pics
Current Projects:
1986 Mazda B2000 Diesel "Project Redemption" Build Thread
1995 Honda Civic "Maggie" Getting a MS1/MS2 conversion after diesel completed Fun Videos** My Civic Pics (link fixed)
Last edited by EmJay : 03-02-2010 at 08:50 PM.
Reason: better off as one thread
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03-10-2010, 01:50 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Astoria, OR
Posts: 607
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u gave me an idea 4 the front mounts i didnt think about before. how would stacking square tubing benefit me? good idea tho but it would wasted alot of material.
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03-10-2010, 09:56 PM
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Super Awesome Moderator
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stacking the square tubing would allow you to customize the height. If you get an 8 foot length you should have plenty. Also the square is nice and strong, especially when welded right.
__________________
Past Projects:
1980 Caprice Classic "Goliath the Pimpmobile"
1989 Mazda B2200 LX Extended Cab "Rarity" Archive Pics
Current Projects:
1986 Mazda B2000 Diesel "Project Redemption" Build Thread
1995 Honda Civic "Maggie" Getting a MS1/MS2 conversion after diesel completed Fun Videos** My Civic Pics (link fixed)
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03-11-2010, 10:41 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Astoria, OR
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true. idk how it would b adjusted to the right height unless u cut some notch or side off of it. im gunna mount the tubing verticaly and reinforce it with some plate that has a bend in it. it should b very strong.
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1988 B2200, rattle canned black with clear coat (Duplicolor), Weber 32/36, Pacesetter, 2.5 to Magnaflow, 5% tint, Skyline Seats, custom headliner, rewrapped door panels, 17x7.5 Escalades on some michelins, shaved fenders, clear lenses all around, 95-97 Tacoma 4x4 bumper, LED light conversion.
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03-12-2010, 01:33 AM
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Super Awesome Moderator
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Well, if you wanted to select your height in between sizes of the square tubing you could always weld flat steel strips together like plywood 
I'm not too certain about how vertical stacking would be just as strong, but it will definitely be stronger than just 4 bolts  I look forward to pics and future mods to make your build look factory (if that's what you are after that is)
__________________
Past Projects:
1980 Caprice Classic "Goliath the Pimpmobile"
1989 Mazda B2200 LX Extended Cab "Rarity" Archive Pics
Current Projects:
1986 Mazda B2000 Diesel "Project Redemption" Build Thread
1995 Honda Civic "Maggie" Getting a MS1/MS2 conversion after diesel completed Fun Videos** My Civic Pics (link fixed)
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03-12-2010, 04:50 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Astoria, OR
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im not to worried about the factory look but the strength thing is somthin i kind of am.
__________________
1988 B2200, rattle canned black with clear coat (Duplicolor), Weber 32/36, Pacesetter, 2.5 to Magnaflow, 5% tint, Skyline Seats, custom headliner, rewrapped door panels, 17x7.5 Escalades on some michelins, shaved fenders, clear lenses all around, 95-97 Tacoma 4x4 bumper, LED light conversion.
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04-25-2010, 04:00 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Astoria, OR
Posts: 607
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got some progress today im mainly doing this cuz im broke n this costs me nothing since i have an abundance of steel everywhere at my house from everything that has been scrapped over the years.
just need to make a bend on each black line of the 1/4" plate bolt them in tack them to the tubing, weld it. then weld them to the seat rails. should b outrageously strong. left peices are 4 the rear, right 4 the front that will make a cap on the front of the seat rail.
__________________
1988 B2200, rattle canned black with clear coat (Duplicolor), Weber 32/36, Pacesetter, 2.5 to Magnaflow, 5% tint, Skyline Seats, custom headliner, rewrapped door panels, 17x7.5 Escalades on some michelins, shaved fenders, clear lenses all around, 95-97 Tacoma 4x4 bumper, LED light conversion.
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04-25-2010, 10:36 PM
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Jan. 1971 - May 2010 R.I.P
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: great white north
Posts: 511
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i would add a gusset on each of the mounts. the front ones you can angle backwards and weld fron the bolt/anchor plate. the rears due the same only towards the front of the vehicle. that will add strength and help in case of an accident. just my 2 cents.
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04-25-2010, 10:54 PM
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: seattle
Posts: 220
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just slap some jb weld on there n call it good.  . lol. those seats look way comfy. i'm jelious. but. killing an R32 should be a crime. haha
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04-25-2010, 11:40 PM
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Donator
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: Hackett, Arkansas
Posts: 1,916
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After you run a bead around the square tube, you wont need a gusset. That will be way stronger than what the factory puts on there.
Just make sure when you weld the square tube to the factory seat rail, to keep the heat of the weld closest to the thicker metal.
This will keep from changing the tensile strength of the metal so much. If you get the metal too hot, it becomes brittle and will break easier.

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