Modded B2200 questions..carb/jet settings!!!???

Xulf13 · #91 (**permalink**) 01-14-2010, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jedricker

Also Vanessa -

This forum has been GREAT for all sorts of mechanical issues with my truck. The ONE factor that I think is giving everyone some trouble is EXACTLY what carb you have, because it seems fairly different from the progressive 32/36 Weber/Holleys that some of us have switched to, let alone the "stock" one.

I have found a LOT of good info out there on the various carbs by googling the exact model number, which is usually stamped on the bottom edge of the carb. Once you get that, you can usually find some pretty good info online, usually from carb retailers.

Try this one: REDLINE - Serving the U.S., Canada, Central and South America for over 30 years

I think they are a big distributor of Webers and parts. They should probably also have good info on how to adjust your particular carb. For that matter, you MIGHT even consider just switching over to the Weber 32/36 carb, since you already have the mounting block and air cleaner for it, and they are pretty simple to get running on a Mazda. Just a thought... You could probably scare up a good used Weber for $100, or if you're feeling adventurous look into a copy of the Weber, like a Holley 5200 or a Carter 32/36. Those might take a little more adaptation though. The reason I mention changing carbs is just that the Weber 32/36 seems to be very well suited for the Mazda 2.2 motor. I'm not quite sure why that is, but it seems to be genera

As far as the distributor, timing belt alignment, etc., I'm sure the guys on the forum here can certainly help you with that. I am about to pull that lower pulley and cover off my timing belt to double check the same issue myself! It looks like you've got a nice truck, and although the issues you are dealing with are tricky, its probably "just" a matter of getting everything adjusted right, and it should all be worth it. Good luck!

P.S. - If I can help any other (?) way, let me know - my number is (703) 851-8526. I'm up at all hours so don't worry about waking me up....

OK, sorry, I HAD to do that - I'm just screwing with "Staticdropped"!! (Yes, that's HIS number, not mine - I could probably be of little help anyway, sadly)

Some one else is going to get pranked called for april's fools or sooner. (i'm writing these numbers down you know? J/K)

She already mentioned that this carb is a 36/36 syncronious carb I've seen them on ebay and on webercarbs direct.com. But no free tech section for that particualr carb.

vanessa_valium · #92 (**permalink**) 01-14-2010, 11:06 AM

Yeah, no diagrams for the carburetor, either. No tech section. Personally, I don't like this carb..and would like to get one smaller, one that's actually FOR this truck. Although, when you go to webercarbsdirect.com and type in the search "Mazda B2200" it'll bring up that carb on it designated for the B2200. It's weird. But it doesn't seem like it should be on this truck, everyone I've showed it to says, "That's meant for a v6 or v8".

So who knows.

And I have a manual on the truck, it's a Chilton manual. Anyone have any experience with those? Good bad? Is this the one you're talking about? It says "Haynes" inside the cover. Weird. Is it Chilton or Haynes or both? lol

I looked at the firing order...I'm just gonna see if I can get my dist. looking like the one in that picture.

And taking a photo of it before messing with it is SUCH a good idea!!! You are A GENIUS whoever said that, because I was thinking about it the other day and was like, "Well, how do I remember what it looked like after I mess with it incase I do something wrong? I wanna be able to put it back the way it was before.." and BAM! Camera. DUH!!!

I am blonde now. lol. I Also don't have long hair anymore, so no worries on it getting caught in the fan, but thanks for the warning. lol.

So..I'm gonna see what I can do to it today. I'll take some pictures and let you guys know how it goes.

Gonna try to rotate the dist. and check the timing just from what I can visually see. I don't have a whole lot of tools, but my friend Brandon does..so I'll see if I can hook up with him today and take some stuff off and check it out for myself.

Will post again later tonight to let you guys know how it went.

Thanks again, my new forum friends! You're all so helpful!!!

I am stoked on this, really. I like working on my own cars and I like being able to know what's going on. I'm honestly learning SO much about this truck that when I talk to guys at work they stare at me blankly and ask, "So...will you work on my truck? I dunno what's wrong with it...and I have no idea what you're talking about." lol

SCORE ONE FOR ME! Haha. Now at leas I SOUND smart... :P

vanessa_valium · #93 (**permalink**) 01-14-2010, 11:08 AM

Edit: I wouldn't trust myself working on someone else's truck yet, though. lol. So you guys don't have to worry about me trying to play mechanic and messing up other people's cars..I'm not that stupid. lol. But I know some guys out here who don't know how to change their own oil...sad, huh? Good thing they have me, right?

briankmizell · #94 (**permalink**) 01-14-2010, 11:43 AM

Vanessa where do you live, maybe some one can come by and help you with this, (making sure your BF is present when this happens. dont need any jealousy issues started lol) hopefully he's not the jealous type, but IMO its better safe than sorry..........lol

If I were close to you I wouldn't mind helping at all. I know this can be a tedious task, as I had to get the timing right on mine after I rebuilt it.

vanessa_valium · #95 (**permalink**) 01-14-2010, 10:01 PM

I live in Prescott, Arizona. It's about 1-1/2 hours outside of Phoenix. Not too bad of a drive. If there is anyone out there near Phoenix or Prescott, gimme a shout!!!

Kyrasis6 · #96 (**permalink**) 01-14-2010, 11:51 PM

Vanessa,

There is a good possability that if you mess with the distributor as it is the truck may stop running all together. The only real way to go about it is to make sure EVERYTHING is timed properly because each thing is relative to the other.

Ignition timing from the distributor is dependent on piston location from the crankshaft, but our distributors run off of the camshaft. That means if the cam isn't right neither is the distributor and nothing works.

In a very simplified list of steps you need to:

Set the timing mark on the crank pulley to TDC
Set the cam sprocket to #1 (or position A)
Line up the marks on the distributor and re-install
Move your spark plug wires to the proper locations

I would perform them in that order.

lil_low_mazda · #97 (**permalink**) 01-15-2010, 12:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vanessa_valium

I live in Prescott, Arizona. It's about 1-1/2 hours outside of Phoenix. Not too bad of a drive. If there is anyone out there near Phoenix or Prescott, gimme a shout!!!

static dropped says he wants to drive out to arizona and minitruck with you cause ur hot hahahahaha

briankmizell · #98 (**permalink**) 01-15-2010, 12:33 AM

You guys are gonna get that poor boy in trouble...............lol

Pantharen · #99 (**permalink**) 01-15-2010, 02:13 AM

Do I hear the sounds of a Mazdatruckin unified Road trip to Arizona...

Sigh... I wish I was allowed in the US... but I aint so I have to pass..

Cusser · #**100** (**permalink**) 01-15-2010, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kyrasis6

Vanessa,

There is a good possability that if you mess with the distributor as it is the truck may stop running all together. The only real way to go about it is to make sure EVERYTHING is timed properly because each thing is relative to the other.

Ignition timing from the distributor is dependent on piston location from the crankshaft, but our distributors run off of the camshaft. That means if the cam isn't right neither is the distributor and nothing works.

In a very simplified list of steps you need to:

Set the timing mark on the crank pulley to TDC
Set the cam sprocket to #1 (or position A)
Line up the marks on the distributor and re-install
Move your spark plug wires to the proper locations
Set the ignition timing

I would perform them in that order.

Well, course, most readers here know I'm in Arizona, mostly in Phoenix (100 miles from Prescott) but also have a place in Chino Valley (15 miles from Prescott).
(1) I have Mrs. Cusser
(2) I'm pretty busy with job, 2 kids, work around the house, and 4 vehicles plus daughter's that I do 99% of the work on.
(3) Vanessa's "Sam" contains an "unknown" Mazda engine
(4) Yes, I do have a timing light. Did you check with AutoZone free loaner tool to see if they have this? I've used their loaner system in the past and it's pretty helpful.
(5) I have a compressor tester (so should AutoZone), may be handy just to get a "baseline", or maybe you posted such numbers earlier in your post, can't remember. I'm going to measure mine's compression this weekend (I'm just curious) when I take out the spark plugs for cleaning, after I do the wrranty swap (again) on my brake master cylinder.
(6) I'm definitely not traveling to that area either this weekend or next, don't know after that.
I agree with what K6 stated above, just don't "monkey" with the distributor. What he's saying is that the camshaft timing/timing belt orientation needs to be confirmed, THEN one can check confirm if the distributor shaft is in the correct orientation and/or do correctly, THEN one can confirm spark wire orientation and/or do correctly, and set the timing. It's not as bad as it sounds.

Vanessa - I routinely drive my '88 B2200 between Phoenix and Chino Valley, and it runs fine. But (since you've maybe never ridden in one that works well) be aware that these don't have much power, like when going up extended hills (like going north up I-17 north of Black Canyon City), especially when carrying a load. But they're GREAT trucks for everyday use, why I've driven mine as my primary vehicle for 15.5 years. And yours looks like it's in nice shape from your photos, and it's easier and cheaper to fix stuff like this than bodywork.

hitdogg · #**101** (**permalink**) 01-15-2010, 11:44 AM

If you get the cam and crank in time, after doing this, like Cusser and K6 have said, I would take the distributor completely out. Try and keep the orientation as far as the firing order, and turn the rotor button till it was just before #1 firing position, or at the 9 o'clock position. That should get it close enough that a timing light can be used to fine tune it in more with the turning of the distributor. If this has been your problem (timing) then you should see a hugh difference, even if its's off a couple of degrees.

Kyrasis6 · #**102** (**permalink**) 01-15-2010, 04:03 PM

If anything is off by one tooth it won't be off by a couple degrees, it will be off by like 12-18 degrees minimum. All the marks must be spot on, if they are you should be able to lock down the distributor in the middle of the slide and it should purr like a kitten. The last time I put a timing light on my truck to time it was 2005, lol.

hitdogg · #**103** (**permalink**) 01-15-2010, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kyrasis6

If anything is off by one tooth it won't be off by a couple degrees, it will be off by like 12-18 degrees minimum. All the marks must be spot on, if they are you should be able to lock down the distributor in the middle of the slide and it should purr like a kitten. The last time I put a timing light on my truck to time it was 2005, lol.

Oh ok, maybe I got mine spot on then when I put it in. I took it out a couple of times, and put it back in, where it would be in the middle of the adjuster. I didn't have a timing light, but it ran very good afterwards. Must have been just lucky. Sorry for the bad Info

Kyrasis6 · #**104** (**permalink**) 01-15-2010, 07:41 PM

It will run if it is one tooth off in either direction but if it is retarded one tooth it will have no power if it is advanced one tooth it will run ok at low rpm and hit a wall at high rpm and under acceleration it will hesitate or start to buck.

vanessa_valium · #**105** (**permalink**) 01-16-2010, 12:34 PM

My truck does start to buck when I try to accelerate too fast. I don't know if that's normal. It also does ok at low rpms, but when I start off from a dead stop, sometimes it stalls and shuts off, or starts to stall, then I push down the gas pedal more, and it SLOWLY goes, then hits a certain point and accelerates normal.

I put new spark plugs in...that seemed to help. It doesn't stall so much anymore, and when I give it gas, it actually goes, instead of stalling.

The spark plugs I took out were black, smelled like gas, and were wet with gas when I took them out. They also had a bit of oil around the threads. Is that normal? I know they were carbon fouled, meaning the truck is running too rich...for whatever reason. I know also, that I should readjust the carburetor as well now that I have new spark plugs in there.

Yes, I am waiting for a weekend when I can take the timing belt cover off and line everything up. My friend with the garage and tools has another job now, and he is only free on weekends. So I will more than likely have to wait til next weekend.

Thanks for the offer, Cusser, I know you're busy. We all have lives. lol.

But if I plan on taking another trip to Phoenix I will let you know. I am actually planning one this weekend possibly, because I have friends there that I am going to be moving in with in the next couple months. So, we might actually be neighbors. Creepy, huh? lol.

I will let you guys know what happens. I have more pictures, too...I just have to upload them and I also just bought a new computer, so it will more than likely take me longer to post everything because I'm still figuring it out. lol.

Also...Auto Zone does not have a timing light for rent. And the cheapest one is $40. Which is too much for me to pay considering I only need to use it once. Maybe I could buy it then return it??? What do you think?