Help for a starter! Mods please!

I've just started to revive my dad's 1991 b2200. I've just put a new weber 32/36, a performance header exhaust, and a brand new aluminum radiator. I would like to get the most out of the motor. I desperately would like the fastest, easiest, affordable performance mods to my b2200. Of course any other not so easy mod would be appreciated. Thanks. I would've liked to upload pics but the pics are too big.

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'91 Mazda B2200 manual trans. with Weber 32/36 carb, exhaust header, all-aluminum radiator. More mods coming soon, just a starter!!!

i bought an msd blaster coil and put it in the same spot, got a universal set of 8mm accel wires(you can make up to four whole sets for a 4 cyl but you need some extra boots) it make a huge difference in throttle response. that and an electric fan are about the easiest ones to do

you can get a cam from colt cams and theirs a company out their that makes high compression pistons and you could always get the head milled down

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minitrucks suck =(

The catch with the cam is it is not advised to run one without upgrading the valve springs. Milling the head for compression is a bad idea since it's easy to warp. Boring or decking the block are much better options.

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2" exhaust from the 4 into 1 collector back to the tail pipe, aluminum air intake, with a K&N Filter, or go with a ram air intake from the hood directly into the carb. getting a bigger bore on the engine to a higher compression and running a higher octane fuel. Alcohol burns at a 12:1 compression, as does Aviation Fuel and Propane.

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1992 B2200 Cab Plus <--- Current B
1988 Dodge Caravan 2.5L 5spd Just click the link.

thank you really appreciate it. I will consider starting by the ignition since I already had it in mind to start from there, thank you for your replies, anyone is welcome

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'91 Mazda B2200 manual trans. with Weber 32/36 carb, exhaust header, all-aluminum radiator. More mods coming soon, just a starter!!!

Ignition modifications are cheap, easy, and good insurance but without being able to precisely control the timing curve they are just that good insurance, lol.

I guess we need to know if you are planning on doing a rebuild or if your just tweaking things here and there. I'm very happy with my light weight flywheel but a new one isn't exactly cheap or simple to put in, it helped very nicely with driving in Charlotte traffic though

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I installed a Colt Cam, Stage I, and very happy with the results (after the 38mm Outlaw carb). Along wth the Webber 32/36, it was much better and great gas milage, but I lost some bottem end. And, it just didn't seem to be what I had hoped for. The 38mm sync carb was the missing link (I also had the head ported - and not by Fred and Barney's auto repair).

However, I went through the cost and hassel of upgrading the valve train. As K6 has stated, the valve train is the weakest link. After all the inspections and analysis, I would NOT put a cam in this stock engine without going through the expense and hassel to upgrade the valve train.

With the new valve seats, retainers and springs (basically Chevy LS2 springs with minor modifications) the engine will will run much smoother. The difference is dramatic, smoother running and willingness to rev. I can't under empahsize the difference.

You're better off getting rid of the stock carb and ECU, installing a header and all the intake plumbing. It won't pass Emission inpsection, but it will perform much better and get better mileage.

I wishi I had installed flat-top pistons with stock valve reliefs, but didn't have a source at the time.

Some people claim they have used miata valve springs to go with a regrind cam but I couldn't tell you what engine or year they used or if the spring they chose actually had any benefit.

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Just ran into this while shopping parts for my 2.0 rebuild:

Eibach Miata 1.8L Springs and Specs

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