Weber / Holley 5200 Installation Typical Install Instructions Read and understand all steps of these instructions before beginning this installation. Kit is for offroad use, not for use on the highways in California. Redline Weber Kit K675 /K75-38 Mazda Pick-up B2200 / B2000 84-93 Using REDLINE Weber 32/36 DGEV or 38 DGES These instructions are intended as a general guide for installation. Certain steps may vary slightly for different vehicles. Jetting Specifications Jetting specifications of carburetors supplied in kits may vary slightly, but will always be correct for the intended application. Tools Needed Combination, box, or open-end wrenches Socket Set Screwdrivers (Flat and Phillips) Pliers 6mm Allen wrench Gasket Scraper or flat knife Shop rags, Cleaning Solvent Gasket sealer Parts Supplied with Install Kit Weber 32/36 DGEV or 38 DGES Carburetor adapter Hardware kit Cable bracket Chrome air Filter Tune-Up Specifications All engine tune-up specifications for the REDLINE Weber Carburetor remains the same as those specified by the factory for the original unit. A suitable qualified dealer or independant garage, using a five gas analyser should carry out emission tune-up. Note:Late model vehicles fitted with emission control systems have many vacuum lines and electrical connections in their fuel system. It is essential when dismantelling, that disconnected lines be identified with a number, tag or label system. Establish function of any device reconnected or disconnected. Recommended Additional Parts 1. It is recommended to obtain a new fuel filter and install it when installing this kit. 2. The B2200 & B2000 use a high-pressure fuel system. The Redline Weber only requires 3.5 psi Maximum. Installation of a fuel pressure regulator is necessary. 3. For a typical installation it is recommended to buy some 5/32" vacuum line for the vacuum advance and EGR hookups or for any custom additions that require engine vacuum. Universal Disassembly 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 12. Remove (-) Battery terminal first then the (+). Remove the gas cap to relieve pressure. Using the emissions sticker under the hood or factory manual, tag each hose, vacuum line and electrical connector attached to the original carburetor and air filter. Remove factory air breather assembly and all attaching hardware and hoses. Remove factory vacuum lines from carburetor. Remove fuel line from carb and plug. Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle lever and the cable bracket. Remove Cruise control cable if equipped. Locate the choke wire and cut 1" from the choke. Install the supplied female adapter to the long piece of wire. Loosen the carburetor mounting nuts and remove the stock carb and spacer. Insert clean shop towel into manifold opening before cleaning gasket surface. Clean intake gasket surface. Keep the original 12 mm nuts for mounting the weber, this will avoid mismatched hardware and will provide more room for tightening and loosening. Remove the carburetor mounting studs from the intake manifold using the double nut method by installing 2 nuts half way down the stud and lock them together. To remove the stud turn the lower nut, to install tighten the upper nut. Place the lower adapter plate on the manifold and mark the location of the PCV port, use a carbide burr and a dremel tool or drill to clearance the adapter plate until it sits flat on the manifold AND the PCV hose fits.Scrape and clean intake manifold surface thouroughly. Bench Assembly Install the new REDLINE lever on the carburetor. CAUTION: Do not over tighten throttle shaft nut. Proper tightness can be achieved by installing nut just sligtly more than finger tight (finger tight then 1/8 turn) and bend lock tab. After tightening, open choke and check for full throttle operation from idle stop to wide-open throttle. If any sticking or binding occurs loosen nut and re-tighten with reduced torque. If excessive torque has been applied, re-centralization of the throttle plate may be necessary. This may require loosening nut and tapping on the end of the shaft with a small plastic mallet or a screwdriver handle (We are not driving nails here, firm but not abusive). Universal Reassembly 13. a. b. c. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. Remove rag from manifold opening. Install the carburetor adaptor as follows; (Use loctite on all bolts and studs during installation of adaptor.) Coat the manifold base gasket with a suitable gasket sealer and position the gasket on the manifold. Apply loctite to the 8mm Allen bolts and secure the bottom half of the adapter and tighten ina a criss-cross pattern to 12 lb/ft. Coat the intermediate gasket with sealant and position the gasket on the adapter apply loctite to the 8mm Allen bolts and secure the top adapter half to the bottom. Apply loctite to the 8mm studs and isntall the studs into the manifold adapter ensuring that the studs go no further then flush with the bottom of the top adapter half. Install the carburetor with gasket to the adapter with the linkage toward the firewall. Slide the supplied throttle cable bracket over the two adapter studs closest to the valve cover. Using the nuts and washers supplied, secure the carburetor to the adapter, and then tighten in a criss-cross manner to 12-15 lb/ft. Install the original throttle cable onto the bracket and adjust the cable at the bracket so full throttle can be achieved and the throttle returns fully to the idle position. (Choke plates should be held open to bypass the idle kick up of choke linkage.) Connect the throttle cable bracket to valve cover and connect the throttle cable to the linkage. Check for full throttle position and free throttle movement. If there is any throttle bind correct the problem before proceeding. Mount the return spring tab supplied in kit to one of the EGR valve bolts or anywhere close to the carb where the spring has enough tension to pull the throttle plates shut when you let off the gas. Attach the return spring between the tab and the hole on the underside of the throttle cable lever. Universal Reassembly (Cont.) 20. Using figure 2 located below as a guide to connect the following vacuum lines. Original distributor vacuum advance hose to the vacuum advance port. Original cansister purge hose to from the thermal valve located on the bottom of the intake manfold to the EGR port on the carburetor. 21. Connect the original choke wire with female plug to the choke. To avoid needing to extend the choke wire reroute it towards the front of the engine to free up some slack. 22. Connect the fuel line from the pump to the carburetor with the supplied hose. - The hose for the Crankcase inlet will need to be rerouted or replaced by a small filter. If rerouting the hose install the plastic adapter on the air filter. Locate the PCV system inlet port located on the top of the valve cover near the middle (Not the one with the PCV valve). Run a new line from this port to the adapter on the weber air breather. 23. Re-connect battery starting with (-) terminal and replace gas cap. 24. START ENGINE Check for vacuum leaks around the carburetor mounting base and around plugged lines that have been removed, repair leaks as neccessary. Use spray can of carburetor cleaner with hose attachment to locate a leak by spraying around the carburetor base and vacuum line connections. If any spray is entering the induction system the idle speed will change. Do this with the engine cold and after it has warmed up. Note: Some small leakage at the throttle shafts is expected. If engine has poor idle or will not idle at all shut engien off and reset idle by setting the idle speed screw to 1 1/4 turns in maximum after contact with the throttle lever. The mixture skrew after lightly seating it comes out 2 turns. See tuning procedure page 5 & 6. 25. STOP ENGINE To install air filter assembly remove the four studs in the carburetor air horn, install the gasket and use the appropriate bolts or nuts (supplied with air filter) to secure to the carburetor. Connect PCV inlet hose from middle of valve cover to the fitting on the bottom of the filter using hose and clamps. 26. If you have performed a body drop check for hood clearance, stock vehicles should have 1-3 inces of clearance. Figure 2.0 Redline Weber Model DGV/DGEV Fast Idle Adjustment With the engine warmed up and turned off, open the throttle and manually engauge the choke plates (butterfilies). Release teh throttle and then release the choke plates. The fast idle cam should now be activated and the fast idle speed screw should be positioned on the cam shoulder. Start the engine DO NOT DEPRESS THE THROTTLE PEDAL OR THE CHOKE WILL DISENGAUGE. To adjust the fast idle speed screw "in" (clockwise) to increase speed and "out" (counterclockwise) to decrease the speed. 32/36 Progressive Lean Best Idle Adjustment It is important to verify all linkages and levers are installed without binding and the linkage opens to full throttle and closes to the Idle Speed Screw. The number one and two reasons for tuning errors are improper linkage installations and over tightened linkage nut,causing a binding in the linkage assembly All settings are done with engine warmed up so that the choke is fully opened and disengauged. 1. Back out the Idle Peed Screw until it does not touch the throttle lever. Cycle or snap the linkage again to be sure that the linkage and lever comes to completle close. (Checking for linkage bind) Turn in the idle speed screw until it contacts the idle lever, and then continue to turn the idle speed screw in 1 1/2-turn maximum. 2. Set the Idle Mixture Screw by turning it in until it lightly seats. Then back out the mixture screw 2 full turns out. DO NOT FORCE THE MIXTURE SCREW AS THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SCREW AND ITS SEAT IN THE BODY OF THE CARBURETOR. 3. With the engine at operating temperature choke fully open and engine running turn in the mixture screw until the engine starts to run worse, then back out the screw (recommend 1/4 turn at a time) until the engine picks up speed and/or begins to smooth out. Back out 1/4 turn more or until the screw does nothing or runs worse then turn back to the point where it ran the best. We are looking for the lean best idle or the "sweet spot". 4. Recheck timing and vacuum hook ups. Then recheck mixture screws to lean best idle again. If all is still, best and smoothest idle then confirm and note the final settings. 5. If the mixture screw is out more than 2 1/4 turns, then the idle jet is too lean (too small). If the mixture screw is out 1 3/4 of a turn or less then the idle jet is too rich (too large). These assumptions are based on the fact that the idle speed crew is not more than 1 1/2 turns in and your engine is in proper operational condition. If the idle speed screw has to be opened more than 1 1/2 turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring jet change. "At times" it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding, this could also be the float level is too high, 17 mm from the gasket surface to the tip of the float and check the fuel pressure, MAX. 3.5 PSI, USE a pressure regulator! Please support MazdaTruckin.com by searching for your Weber parts here: